HOW TO GROW DAHLIAS FROM SEED.
Written by guest author Graham Rice
The bright flamboyance of the dahlia is something that gardeners either love or hate and the dinner-plate sized blooms seen in shows excite the most controversy - some wouldn't grow anything else, others wouldn't grow them at all.
Show varieties are raised from cuttings but feelings are much less intense about the bedding dahlias which are raised from seed. Of course even the most prized show varieties, or at least those that have not arisen as sports, must be raised from seed at some stage following hybridisation, but for most gardeners raising dahlias from seed concerns bedding varieties and varieties for cut flowers. No seed raised strains have consistently reached the standard required for success at shows.
It was first noted by botanists in the sixteenth century and was cultivated by early settlers and it is thought that the first three species introduced from Mexico were probably hybrids. The first plants arrived in Madrid in 1798 but they were soon lost as they were grown in conditions which were far too warm. In the early years of the nineteenth century, plants were introduced again and as its cultivation became better understood were grown more and more widely.
In 1922 the first successful bedding dahlia was introduced 'Coltness Gem', and a mixture of colours under this name is still available. Seed collected from tall show varieties has been available for many years but tends to yield largely unsatisfactory results. Although the individual flowers are often perfectly adequate for cutting for the house, the number of flowers produced compares very unfavourably with vegetatively propagated varieties. It's in the small bedding types that seed raised dahlias really come into their own.
Growing Dahlias from seed
Raising dahlias from seed is not a difficult business although they do need a fairly high temperature for germination followed by frost protection until planting out. I have discovered a couple of other ways of raising them, which I will go into later, but the basic routine is as follows:
Seed is best sown in spring and given a germination temperature of about 65F (18C). I have tried three ways of treating them. The seeds are quite large so in each case they can be sown individually ensuring they are not too crowded. The three alternatives for raising them as half hardy annuals are as follows:
1. Sow in a seed pot or seed tray and prick out into a seed box (flat) [it may be necessary to pot the seedlings up if they get too crowded in the seed box (flat)]
2. Sow in a seed pot or seed tray and prick out into individual pots
3. Sow in cell packs or other small containers and pot up into individual pots. Personally I've found the second method to be the most convenient. It's best to sow in a 5in (7.5cm) half pot as the roots tend to develop quickly. If the seeds are spaced about 1 inch (2.5cm) apart they can be left until the leaves touch before being potted up.
The seed pot should go in a propagator at a temperature of 65F (18C). No covering is required save the lid of the propagator and any shading material necessary to prevent overheating.
Germination will usually be fairly rapid, 10-14 days, quicker if the temperature is higher. When the leaves of the seedlings touch they can be potted up. Most of the seed will germinate together so the compost can be removed from the pot and broken up for the seedlings to be removed. The root system may be well developed by potting time so the seedlings must be handled with care.
The plants should not be planted in the garden before the last frost. For about three weeks before planting time the plants should be hardened off in a well ventilated cold greenhouse or a cold frame to accustom them to life outdoors.
Flowers may well be in evidence at planting time but, if not, will soon appear and then continue until the first autumn frosts.
Dahlias can also be raised in a cold greenhouse with a propagator. I have sown seed as described above in a cold greenhouse in spring (early April in the UK) and potted the seedlings about six weeks later. After a further month they were planted outside and came into flower on small plants about a month after those sown with warmth. A well drained compost is especially important if you're following this method. It's also important to use dwarf early flowering varieties such as 'Figaro' and 'Rigoletto'.
In the garden bedding dahlias thrive in a sunny site which does not dry out too much. Ensure that they are watered well after planting and that they don't dry out during the summer. The smallest varieties are excellent in tubs and window boxes and slightly taller ones will also provide flowers for the house.
Dead heading is vital right through the season and the seed heads can simply be pulled off the stems with a sharp tug - there is no need to cut them off individually. Liquid feeding is useful, especially for plants grown in containers. The only pest is likely to be blackfly and an insecticide containing pyrimor is the safest spray.
For more information on dahlias click onto:
HOW TO OVER-WINTER DAHLIAS
THE SEA HOLLY - Eryngium × Oliverianum